Showing posts with label Tempelhof. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tempelhof. Show all posts

Sunday, October 19, 2014

An October Sunday's Triumph


Exhausted after two late nights out in a row, I woke up this Sunday at half past noon, and spent the next two hours warming up my mind, joints, and muscles. We haven't been leaving the house much, for many reasons. Agoraphobia, fatigue, nausea, an ill pet, loads of work, and needed relaxation after many vet visits and doctors appointments.

Today there were many things to do at home. Many projects that need to be completed. But as the sun crawled onto the bed and grew only more alluring, Rahsan suggested we go out to the cafe, and I jumped on board. Every little piece of me needed what happened today.

First there was a sort of compromise. We were going to just pop across the street and work on some of our various projects, so we grabbed the laptop and headed out. But first, we decided to take our first trip to the city's glass recycling bins a couple of blocks away. This was one of those small tasks with a much larger significance. See, we moved into this apartment in March. Our building does not have glass recycling. We are able to recycle things like our beer bottles at the grocery store (8 cents a bottle - woohoo!) but wine bottles and most other glass needs to be taken to our neighborhood recycling bins. We've never done this. These bottles have been stacking up inside of our huge blue ikea bag since March, carefully placed so that we use up every square centimeter. It's been one of the thousands of goals that weighs on me. Every day I would look at that bag and think of all of the things I have yet to complete, all of the dreams I have yet to set free to the physical world. Well, today, we recycled our glass.

Today's magical fall afternoon was the perfect setting for this seemingly monumental feat. The sun was out and the temperature was around 21 C (70 F), as if Berlin's summer had come back for one last goodbye. It was so warm that we took off our sweaters after only a block. The streets were golden with a carpet of fallen leaves. The recycling bins are beside a little square with trees, benches, a playground, and one of the city's free outdoor public gyms. We first saw this gym - comprised of stationary recumbent bikes, sit-up benches, and some kind of elliptical-type thing - on one of our walks around the area a few months ago. It was the middle of a weekday back then, and there were a handful of older ladies lazily moving about on their piece of equipment. I giggled and thought, "Who would do this?" while also thinking, "Okay, that's a pretty cool use of public space". Well, today there were no ladies occupying the exercise machines, and Rahsan and I thought that meant we should keep the equipment company. That was a damn good decision. The sun shone on our faces as we laughed and took photos to commemorate our silly half hour. And thirty minutes is really the maximum amount of time needed to play on six pieces of equipment.

Instead of heading to our original destination, the cafe - which was also the way home - Rahsan suggested we walk in the opposite direction. Off we went, exploring the streets, forging a path into the depths of Neukölln, a path that we will surely use in the future. We walked by Ban Ban Kitchen, a Korean street food restaurant that Rahsan had heard of, which wasn't yet open (we returned later and it was delicious). We passed street after street and then agreed to cross over Hermannstrasse and wander the Tempelhof side of our neighborhood. Our tummies began to rumble, which was perfect timing because we were near Zio Felix, which makes the yummiest pizza I've had here in Berlin. There was a small crowd when we arrived; everyone joined in a sort of chorus of relaxed contentment. We sat at the window counter and expressed for the twentieth time that it was such a lovely day.

When we finished our margherita pizza and apfelschorle (sparkling mineral water mixed with apple juice) the place was full. We walked out and looked to the left, toward Tempelhof. The sun was a bindingly bright orange, and it drew us in. We walked like zombies past the various cafes, stopping only for a brief moment to take a picture and to buy a bottle of beer at the Spätkauf (corner store). The air was still warm and we hurried to the park.

Wow. The scene took my breath away. We have yet to visit Tempelhofer Feld for sunset, and it was everything we thought it would be. The huge abandoned airfield, now an undeveloped and fiercely protected sanctuary in the middle of Berlin, was filled with people watching the sun sink toward the horizon. Groups had gathered all along the ridge of the hill, and each minute that passed, everyone seemed to get quieter and quieter. We all stared at the sun as it disappeared, and stayed entranced by the changing colors of the sky.

Immediately upon sitting down, I began to cry a soft cry. Just watery eyes from a sense of great joy and amazement at the moment. Rahsan and I said what we say quite often to each other: "I can't believe we live here". We both felt overpoweringly lucky and affirmed in our great effort to move here. We worked really hard to get to this point, in the last year and in the last few hours.

I'm so glad I got out of bed today.




More photos!















Thursday, July 3, 2014

48 Hours in Neukölln

























48 Stunden Neukölln is an arts festival that takes over basements and backrooms and empty storefronts all over the neighborhood for, you guessed it, forty-eight hours - from Friday evening to Sunday evening.

On Friday night, while walking toward a bar to meet a friend, we saw a sign and heard music from a side street. We went over and walked in to a smoky room, where a crowd of about 20 people were entranced by a one-man band playing two giant metal didgeridoos and an apparatus of percussion instruments. After walking to our meeting location, a bar called Ä, we brought our friend back for the musician's last song.

Then we grabbed beers at the spatkauf (liquor store) and walked around the darkened neighborhood with bottles in hand, finally starting to fit in with the locals. It was really fun to wander the streets and pop in the various art spaces that we happened upon. We found a small photo gallery in a storefront, with a photographer developing photographs of visitors on the spot. We also saw a collection of drawings on leather in the back of a cafe, and another small photo gallery with little square prints of what appeared to be Instagram photos of Berlin. Next, we discovered another gallery space in the back of a bar, with about a dozen simple drawings by one artist.


Finally ready to sit down, we grabbed a table outside of a Latin bar on a small, cobblestone intersection with bars on all corners. It was crowded with people spilling into the street, with occasional scolding by the van of police parked right in the middle of it all.

On Saturday, we headed out to find a particular gallery we'd read about. While walking down Flughafenstrasse, we saw a place with white ribbons tied in crossing patterns all around the entrance, and a big crowd of people outside. A woman gestured for us to come inside and told us, in German (our friend translated), that "the circus is about to start". There was a queue inside, waiting to go through a curtained doorway. We had no idea what to expect on the other side of those curtains, so our anticipation built. Finally, the curtain parted and we all filed in to a very small, dark room, with two rows of low benches on one side. Everyone sat down. On the other side of the room, there were three performers frozen, like statues. While this is common before any show, what was interesting was that they remained perfectly still for several long minutes. There were two men and one woman, all wearing some form of a mask. The first man appeared to be some sort of reptile, but we're not sure it was meant to be that specific. The woman was in all white, with white feathers in her hair, and the other man seemed to be a tree, with branches in his hair, green fabric (moss, perhaps?) draped over his face, and a bark-like eye mask. All of the strangers in the audience looked around at each other, wondering if this was the whole thing. But then the reptile man began to make strange sounds, that increased in volume steadily. Soon he was speaking a made-up language and waking up the woman with a musical instrument. After some funny interactions, the two of them woke up the third man with music as well. All three of them began to create a melancholy song with haunting moans, a guitar, drums, and Tibetan bowls, which they then passed to us in the audience, encouraging us to contribute to their song. It was beautiful and captivating. It wasn't all serious, though - they interjected improvised comedy. For instance, when an unsuspecting person peeked through the curtain to see what was happening, the trio chased after them, chirping and squawking. The song ended when they all slowly went back to sleep, frozen with their instruments. After about a minute of watching these silent statues, the audience again looked around at each other, and those with musical instruments sounded them, which caused the performers to suddenly wake up and dash out of the room, skipping with excitement.


After an unsuccessful search for the original gallery we'd set to see, we made our way to a bar called Madame Claude over in Kreuzberg to meet a group of friends. Madame Claude calls itself an "upside down bar" because they have furniture fixed to the ceiling. It was a good place for a drink and a great way to end the night.

On Sunday, we walked to Gelateria Mos Eisley, which has the best ice cream EVER. We meandered around in Tempelhofer Feld for a while, then peeked into a cafe that had an interactive projection for kids. We crossed the street and decided to sit down in Engels cafe for a cappuccino and green tea. Back on the street, we stopped in to a little shop called ReFash, with upcycled clothing and a rambunctious little Romanian girl who became Shannon's personal shopper. After browsing for 20 minutes, we realized that people were walking downstairs into the basement. We followed and found ourselves in some sort of underwater fantasy world of jellyfish, aquariums, and odd sea creatures, all made of recycled material and found objects.

Further down the street, following our grumbling stomachs, we ate at a wonderful little Italian place called Zio Felix pizzeria. We ordered a delicious salami pizza and a beautiful mozzarella di bufala caprese salad. They have a really nice Spanish and Italian staff. Paula was even kind enough to write us tips for our upcoming trip to Barcelona.
One painting by Julius Jurkiewitsch
While walking to a particular exhibit that was on our list, we noticed that the church on Herrfurthplatz had been transformed into a small gallery. Paintings by Julius Jurkiewitsch were hung all around, depicting mysterious huts built on stilts in dark forests. They were beautiful, with rough but purposeful brushstrokes.

At last, we visited an open studio by artist Leo Jahaan. He creates paintings based on vintage woodcuts, diagrams, and drawings. They are unusual, colorful, and extremely precise because he uses digital techniques to transfer the images onto the canvases. This was an interesting contrast to the expressive works of Jurkiewitsch, in which you can very much see the movements of his hand.

This concluded our 48 hours of art in Neukölln. It was a difficult struggle to not buy more ice cream from Mos Eisley on the way back home. Seriously.



More photos from the weekend!


Leather art by an unknown artist


Walking down the street, seeing what kind of trouble we could get into

Rahsan's not too sure abut this one...

Instagram photos?

Instagram photo! Gimme a tack

Bitter beer (not so bitter, just me being a ham)

Brazil vs. Chile shootout. We didn't pay attention to the game AT ALL but our German friend insisted we stop outside this bar and watch the end. Everyone was on edge

Shoe rack planters.


Come in for a laandinggg!

Tea and coffee at Engels

They have a buffet there with comfy seating nearby.

Seen in Neukölln.

Zio Felix Pizzeria - go, go go!

Yum yum yummmm